June 11, 2025

EP 18 | Why Harsh Cleansers Could Be Damaging Your Skin Barrier

Cleansing: the skincare step that makes or breaks your results

Think your cleanser doesn’t matter? Think again. In this episode, we uncover why proper cleansing is the foundation of any effective skincare routine—and how skipping or rushing it could be wasting your serums and moisturizers.

You’ll learn the power of the double cleanse (oil first, then gentle cleanser) with the perfect analogy: you have to sweep before you mop. We also cover when to exfoliate, how to listen to your skin’s changing needs, and what to avoid if your face ever feels tight or raw after washing.

If you’re ready to get the most out of your products and finally see results, start here.

00:00 - Building an Effective Skincare Routine

01:32 - Morning Cleansing Strategies

02:03 - Finding the Right Cleanser Balance

04:14 - Exfoliation: Timing and Techniques

04:56 - Customizing for Skin Conditions

WEBVTT

00:00:00.040 --> 00:00:13.035
If someone is struggling with acne, or even if they want prejuvenation just say they're in their 20s or 30s, you know or even if they want anti-aging and a little reversal, like what's a good at-home skincare routine that you often recommend.

00:00:13.500 --> 00:00:15.163
Yeah, so you know the.

00:00:15.163 --> 00:00:18.469
You know your bread and butter is going to be a good double cleanse.

00:00:19.332 --> 00:00:20.193
What's a double cleanse?

00:00:20.460 --> 00:00:22.826
Yeah, so double cleanse is honestly one of my favorites.

00:00:22.826 --> 00:00:25.091
It's the best way to start your routine.

00:00:25.091 --> 00:00:32.054
You always start with like an oil-based cleanser to get rid of all that dead skin, the oil, the buildup of makeup.

00:00:32.054 --> 00:00:37.787
That's kind of like your sweeping, and then you'll go on with your second cleanse.

00:00:37.787 --> 00:00:45.046
That could be any cleanser that's good for your skin type, so a glycolic or just a cream-based one, and that's going to be your mopping.

00:00:45.046 --> 00:00:47.043
So you want to brush.

00:00:47.043 --> 00:00:49.710
You know you want to sweep first and then you want to mop the skin.

00:00:49.710 --> 00:00:50.902
So it's a little analogy.

00:00:50.942 --> 00:00:55.182
I always like to tell my clients because you got to do both to get a good slate to your skin.

00:00:55.182 --> 00:00:59.732
So you'd always start with the cleanse, go in with your toner next.

00:00:59.732 --> 00:01:05.490
That could be whatever goal you're trying to reach And's very customizable with that.

00:01:05.490 --> 00:01:09.807
And then, of course, serums and that's what the fun part is serums.

00:01:09.807 --> 00:01:13.784
You can do so many different mixology, so many different combinations.

00:01:13.784 --> 00:01:24.650
Um, moisturizer, of course, keeping up with the skin's moisture, hydration, and then our number one, sunscreen at the end for your day-to-day operations.

00:01:24.912 --> 00:01:25.692
That's really nice.

00:01:25.692 --> 00:01:31.968
Yeah, so do you do a double cleanse in the morning or just at night to get the makeup off and the environmental?

00:01:32.379 --> 00:01:35.990
Yeah, you know I typically just do a double cleanse at nighttime.

00:01:35.990 --> 00:01:37.983
You can do it in the morning.

00:01:37.983 --> 00:01:44.459
If sometimes people sweat a little bit more when they're sleeping or they just feel that layer on.

00:01:44.459 --> 00:01:56.349
I personally just like to do a good first cleanse in the morning time with either a gel or a lactic acid type of cleanser and really get deep in the pores to prep my skin for.

00:01:56.810 --> 00:02:03.090
Yeah, I think that, like your point about the cleansing, is so essential, because I think you know we don't talk about cleanser a lot.

00:02:03.090 --> 00:02:05.659
Everybody wants to go to like the targeted, directed serums.

00:02:05.659 --> 00:02:19.328
But, like, having a good cleanser is so important in order to prep the skin to absorb the actives in the products and if we're not using the right cleanser, to your point, we can strip the skin barrier.

00:02:19.328 --> 00:02:23.971
So what I don't like people to feel is that tight feeling on their skin.

00:02:23.971 --> 00:02:35.093
So, like I like a creamy cleanser that actually is active and the way I can tell so, moon and Skin has created this kale protein cleanser that actually cleanses the skin.

00:02:35.093 --> 00:02:40.274
But when I take toner afterwards and I sweep the skin, I don't see much dirt left.

00:02:40.274 --> 00:02:47.973
So that's how I know my cleanser is doing a good job without feeling tight and raw or burning, because we want to listen to our skin and know it's not burning afterwards.

00:02:47.993 --> 00:03:15.508
Right, yes, yeah, we want to treat it and keep it hydrated and protect that microbiome health because, yeah, exactly, if we strip it, your products and your serums aren't going to really do much for it after Right, there's such a fine line where we're walking, where we're exfoliating and removing the dead skin cells so things can penetrate, but yet not stripping the skin barrier, so it's raw and irritated and we're getting a dermatitis.

00:03:15.508 --> 00:03:16.563
That's what I'm hearing from you.

00:03:16.563 --> 00:03:17.508
Yes, yes.

00:03:17.508 --> 00:03:20.304
So how do we know that we're in that spot?

00:03:20.844 --> 00:03:35.316
I think, just like what you said, if you're feeling that burning or that dryness and almost feeling like you're, if you like open your mouth and you feel it like tug, that's when I tell clients I'm like you know that might be not the best cleanser for you.

00:03:35.316 --> 00:03:46.078
You know you want to keep that hydration, you want to feel your skin kind of have that bounce back to it, and if it's feeling too tight or almost flaky, then that might not be the one for you.

00:03:46.405 --> 00:03:47.631
And how about with exfoliation?

00:03:47.631 --> 00:03:52.236
So with exfoliation, I mean, I've been doing this so long, right?

00:03:52.236 --> 00:03:54.753
So for myself, I know my skin.

00:03:54.753 --> 00:04:06.295
We actually have to get to the point where we look for advice externally, but then we listen to our own body and how our own body responds, and listen to ourselves and intuitively know what we need.

00:04:06.295 --> 00:04:12.967
How do you direct your clients to determine that they need a little more exfoliation or a little exfoliation?

00:04:12.967 --> 00:04:20.069
Because with the seasons, with the seasons of our life, with, uh, our hormonal cycles, like all of those needs are going to change.

00:04:20.069 --> 00:04:27.555
Different geographic environments like when I go to california, I need more exfoliation than in, than in Arizona, where it's dry and my skin doesn't tolerate it.

00:04:27.555 --> 00:04:33.533
So how do you guide people as far as when to exfoliate, like what's a good rule?

00:04:34.153 --> 00:04:43.870
I always like to go in and feel the skin because I think that's how you're going to know what's best for your clients is feeling the skin, what it feels like and what it looks like.

00:04:43.870 --> 00:04:51.240
Sometimes if they have that buildup of texture on, then I would like to recommend a physical exfoliant.

00:04:51.240 --> 00:04:55.896
It could have some different beads or different properties in there to give a good scrub.

00:04:55.896 --> 00:05:07.029
But that also goes back to our acne clients, because if you have that inflamed acne you don't want to do a scrub on the skin because that's just going to irritate it, spread more bacteria.

00:05:07.029 --> 00:05:16.119
So then you would go in with a different type of exfoliant, like a chemical or I'd mainly go with chemical for sure for the inflamed acne.

00:05:16.119 --> 00:05:21.548
But yeah, I guess, just feeling the skin and seeing the texture and what would be a best one.